Day 20: Villafranca Montes de Ock - Atapuerca (4/20/14)

Easter Sunday

A day that began shrouded in mist and mystery -

(which sounds about right to me, theologically, anyway)

and then, as life progressed, just got worse - 

which, frankly, also sounds familiar!

Not that there wasn't beauty - 

there were woods filled with chest high purple heather

and birds singing full stop -

even cuckoos, stating the obvious to all the pilgrims trudging by.

but there was also hour after hour 

of walking in pouring rain 

and streams of red clay mud.

I can't have been the only pilgrim who looked up, saw this 

and felt faint of heart.

Really?

I spent all morning singing Easter hymns, 

(in my head accompanied by timpani, brass and organ),

imagining the celebration in my home parish

and reliving Easter mornings when my kids were little 

and looking for Easter baskets.

OK, so I also fantasied about eating a chocolate bunny - 

at least the ears!

Point is, the day passed.

And I learned two Easter truths:

1) Professor Henry Higgins lied:

the rain in Spain does NOT stay mainly in the plains.

and

2) REI waterproof gloves aren't.

Between my sunburned skin, tight wet gloves and friction from the straps of my hiking poles, 

I got terrible blisters across the backs of my hands -

(which took weeks to heal)

Surprisingly, finding someplace to stay was the easiest part of the day.

After we were all settled in and showered,

we were directed to a local restaurant that had agreed to stay open just for us.

We all headed over, 

expecting a perfunctory meal and reluctant cook.

Our mistake.

After a delicious meal, 

Juanito, the owner, wouldn't let us leave 

until we'd gotten up and 'sung for our supper'.

Folks from Lithuania, Denmark, Holland, Germany and Spain

all took turns wearing 'the performing hat', making their countries proud.

I tried to do the same, honestly I did; 

I sang a rendition of Yankee Doodle Dandy -

yes, I added dance moves in a pathetic attempt to distract from my voice.

I was assured the attempt was as amusing and valiant 

as it was pathetic!

Sorry Americans, I did my best!

During the brief walk back to the albergue, 

I realized what a "Kingdom of God' evening it had been.

A day that was cold, dreary and solitary

had been transformed by a place at table,

a shared meal, 

laughter, 

 being known, 

named 

and accepted.

It was a lovely Easter.