Wednesday, May 28, 2014

Day 7: Roncesvalles - Zubiri (4/07/14)

First task of every day -
finding your shoes 
and making sure you've got the right ones on 
before you leave the albergue!

Don't laugh -
its a harder job than you think -

especially when you're only half awake
from being kept up all night 
by the snoring of 30-50 people, 
of both genders,
all sharing the same communal living space -
the majority of whom clearly need sleep apnea testing!

Never thought I'd be grateful 
for the decades of practice with sleep deprivation 
which my job provided! 

Another day,
another early start -
and immediately 'into the woods' -
known back in the day -
 as being a haven for witches.

(Thank you, Steven Sondheim 
for the ear worm which I now have - 
and had even then - 
stuck in my head for days!)

Not to worry...
the early church tried to have us covered.

The path that day took me through villages
that looked like movie sets...

 in fact, I wouldn't have been surprised to discover they were just facades.

I was still pain free enough - 
at that point of the day- 
to enjoy all the small touches that added charm.

Like the scallop shell on fencing,
dated buildings which made me realize the buildings had existed 
since our country was embroiled in the Civil War
 family coats of arms,
 and the first hints of spring - 
which gave all of us hope
that we wouldn't need the woolen items we'd packed in our sacks!!

If I'd had a guidebook, 
I would have known the path that day went through villages


 as well as woods -
and that it was a steady pace of up and down!

Since I didn't know any of that, 
I was able to concentrate on horses that reminded me of Clydesdales...
 beautiful countryside
 and the availability of fresh water.

I also got to meet a man who seems to have crafted the perfect retirement for himself...
standing on a bridge on a gorgeous spring day, 
chatting up all woman 'of a certain age' who pass by - 
regardless of whether they speak the same language as him - 
and convincing them to give him a kiss.
(And yes, there's probably a photo out there on the world wide webs somewhere 
of me doing the deed with him as well!)

Although Mary spoke passable Spanish, 
she refused to use her considerable skills to tell him that maybe -
just maybe -
 if he trimmed the hair flowing from his ears -
he'd have a chance with the women in his own town!
Honestly, I didn't know ear hair could get so long!
(Insert whole body shiver here!)

Despite this moment of levity, 
by mid afternoon,
the charm of the Camino 
and my deliberate attempts to find beauty and humor had worn thin.

I was tired, sore and crabby.
Yeah, I'm sure I was a real treat to walk with!

But, thank you Jesus, 
there was soon a town with a place to stay,
shower and take a quick siesta.

God, it was good to get the backpack off!

I also ran into a woman in the albergue I'd initially met in St Jean, 
Edwina from Holland,
and she joined us at a nearby restaurant for dinner.

For those of you who don't know,
the Spanish people eat dinner very late -
like starting at 8-9pm late.
By that time, most of the pilgrims are back in their hostels, 
if not already in their sleeping bags!

So, many local eating establishments serve a "menu del dia' to pilgrims, 
generally starting between 6 - 7pm.
Three courses (very basic), with wine or water - all for around 10Euro.

By the time the 'real locals' go out to eat, 
pilgrims are gone 
and life goes on for all of us.

 Although by that hour, 
the only 'life' I wanted was being unconscious!

And, here endeth the 7th day.

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