Saturday, May 31, 2014

Day 17: Azofra - Santa Domingo De Calzada (4/17/14)

It was very early when we left the land that time forgot
and, probably because I still had a pain pill on board,
the day didn't seem so bad.

(Don't worry, a disturbing dream abut being served chocolate covered olives 
by Debbie Reynolds made me reconsider the dose.
Think Debbie Reynolds from her Tammy and the Bachelor days... 
and I DO think I may be on to something with the whole salt and chocolate olive poppers!)

It was a beautiful morning
 practically a day at the spa!
(Told you the drugs were good.)

and we got to Santa Domingo in time to enjoy a street festival 
and Maundy Thursday services.

I even offered to buy Edwina some of this herbal remedy
since I'd been such a pain in the ass!
We settled on this instead!
Honestly, is there anything chocolate doesn't cure?
Well, except obesity.

Santa Domingo has one of the most charming legends associated with it of any town on the Camino -
The Miracle of the Cocks...
you Americans, I can't take you anywhere -
alright, the Miracle of the Rooster.

Seems that 'back in the day', 
a couple and their teenage son were traveling to Santiago 
and stopped for the night in Santa Domingo.
The Inn keepers daughter took quite a shine to the boy and made a pass at him -
which he rebuffed - being a good pilgrim and all. 
The girl didn't take rejection well, placed some of her fathers silver in his backpack and, 
when he left the inn, notified authorities of the 'theft'.
The family was apprehended, their belongings searched and discovery made of the 'stolen' silver.
The boy was immediately sentenced to death.
He was hanged in the town square.

The parents continued, heartbroken, to Santiago.
During prayer in the cathedral, 
they were instructed to return to Santa Domingo on their way home - 
which they did -
and discovered their son alive, 
although swinging from the rope around his neck.
He told them he was being held up by none other than St James himself.

The parents raced to the Judges home, barged in on his dinner 
and informed him that their son was still alive. 
They requested that he be cut down, so they could take him home.
The Judge said derisively that their son was no more alive than the cooked chicken that had just been placed on his table - 
at which point the cooked meat came alive and started leaping about the room.
Needless to say, the boy was released  from the gallows and restored to his family.

To this day, the church in Santa Domingo is the only church in the Roman Catholic tradition that has a Vatican approved chicken coop inside the building!

We were all highly amused with the amount of 'fowl' imagery that was to be had in town!




However, the church also had a feature that all the peregrinas thought was genius!

The Maundy Thursday evening Mass was gorgeous -
so similar to the BCP service that it felt like I was home -
except for the chicken cackling and rooster crowing throughout -
and, after my Camino experience 
and seeing SO much foot care being received and given,
foot-washing will never be the same for me.

I loved how the sun played its way around the church as the evening was ending...




It's always been my favorite day of the liturgical calendar -
and the Spanish version didn't disappoint.

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