In a scene from the movie “Something’s Got to Give”,
lovers Dianne Keaton and Jack Nicholson are arguing;
his character says “I’ve always told you a version of the truth"
which leads her character to reply,
"Truth doesn't have versions".
Which always prompts my response:
"What universe does she live in"?
I thought of that scene as I was reading about the Camino –
absorbing all the different myths, stories associated
not only to towns and symbols found along the way
but to the very origins of the Camino itself.
One tome states that St James body was stolen in Jerusalem
(culprits not identified),
placed in a marble sarcophagus
and transported to the Iberian Peninsula by a small ship.
and transported to the Iberian Peninsula by a small ship.
The ship sank during a storm and, months later,
St James body washed up on shore covered –
and preserved -
in scallop shells.
The body was discovered by fishermen (who somehow recognized a kindred soul)
and quickly buried him in a non-descript tomb –
and it was THAT tomb which the hermit from Galicia found centuries later.
(No uppity Queen toting the body inland in this scenario!)
Still another version:
A “small group of hermits”, living in poverty and prayer,
were amazed one night in the 9th century –
to see a bright light and to hear marvelous antiphons and anthems.
(Echoes of shepherds tending their sheep, hearing angels singing,
claiming the birth of Christ and following a star to a manger?)
Setting out to find the source of these visitations,
they found the sealed entrance of a cave.
Inside they discovered a sarcophagus under a small altar.
Beside the tomb was an inscription:
“Here lies Santiago,
“Here lies Santiago,
son of Zebedee and Salome,
brother of St. John,
whom Herod beheaded in Jerusalem”.
The discovery was made on July 25, 813,
now commemorated as the Feast Day of St. James.
Yet one more version of events has the boat carrying St James body
startling a horse and rider on the shore as it was approaching land.
Recovering quickly from surprise,
the horse and rider plunged into the sea to greet the ship.
Both subsequently drowned in the quick current -
only to emerge hours later, alive and covered with scallop shells;
restored to life by St James intercessions to God.
The rider, said to be a bridegroom, went joyfully on to his wedding
and his, no doubt, confused (and more than slightly pissed) bride.
This last story listed is often used to explain why
the scallop shell has long been the emblem for St. James.
I would be remiss in failing to mention that the Camino's Christian heritage was, in fact,
predated by ancient pagan rituals and pilgrimages.
Long before Jesus was born,
it is believed pagans walked across Northern Spain
in a 'born again' ritual
in a 'born again' ritual
as part of honoring the goddess, Venus.
(Yes, she of "standing naked on a scallop shell" fame).
Following basically the same route,
echoing the path of the Milky Way overhead,
pagans headed to Finisterre to burn their clothes and watch the sun fall into the sea
next to La Costa de Morta (the Coast of Death)...
next to La Costa de Morta (the Coast of Death)...
acts symbolizing the pilgrims death and rebirth.
Like many pagan rituals, (ex. Winter Solstice celebrations becoming Christmas),
the institutional church superimposed a 'Christian" meaning on already existing practices
in order to have the 'new' beliefs gain more strength and wider acceptance
among the populations they were trying to convert.
The scallop shell is, in fact, one of the most prominent symbols of the Camino,
used on sign posts and walls
directing pilgrims on the way to Santiago,
directing pilgrims on the way to Santiago,
as well as carried on the back packs of travelers
marking them as being on pilgrimage.
The lines of the shell are also said to represent the many different routes to Santiago,
all converging at one point,
the Cathedral holding the relics of St James.
I was recently looking at a ring I’ve treasured and worn for years
and was – and yet somehow wasn’t - surprised
to see vestiges of the lines of a scallop shell on it.
(I say 'not surprised' because I think all our stories,
all our journeys,
are nestled one inside the other
like a giant, cosmic Matryoshka doll;
each separate yet part of a whole)
It was given to me by a beloved friend to symbolize
the beautiful sunrises and sunsets on the reservation (Rosebud) in South Dakota
we both identified as sacred ground for us.
Even though I'll be traveling light,
I will definitely be wearing this ring while I walk on the Camino.
I love it when personal and historic 'versions' of reality come together!
I love it when personal and historic 'versions' of reality come together!
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